Pattern: Shirt/Undertunic (Sorochka)

Rubakha

Cut 4 of each piece; the sleeve can be cut on the fold: place top horizontal A on fold and cut 2. The back of the shirt may also be cut on the fold: place vertical A on the fold and cut 1 Shirt Body; the same can be done with the front of the shirt if it is to be a pulled-over garment rather than a buttoned shirt. For additional comments, see below.

Check sleeve length and overall length: this is best done as the pattern is transferred to paper. Do not forget to add seam allowances to your pattern! Alternately, add seam allowances directly on the fabric (I use 1/2″ or 3/4″ allowances).Transfer pattern to fabric and cut.

 

To assemble the garment (the numbers refer to seams in order of construction): Sew two front halves of the shirt body together, repeat with back if necessary. Sew together the two halves of the sleeves (1), if necessary (omit these steps if you cut on the fold).Stitching

Attach shirt front to shirt back at shoulders (1).

Attach gusset to gore — 2.

Attach gore+gusset assembly to sleeve — 3.

Attach completed Sleeve/Gore assembly to shirt body — 4.

Sew side seam along sleeve, gusset and gore — 5.

BackNecklineThis pattern can be easily modified from a pulled-over to a buttoned shirt.

Cut 2 front Shirt Body pieces. Sew together if desired, leaving an opening in front.

 

The neckline of the shirt back can also be modified.Offset

For an offset shirt opening, cut front piece of Shirt Body on fold. Cut an opening off-center. Modify back neckline as above. Assemble shirt as instructed.<br />

A collar can be added to the modified neckline.

The pattern produces a shirt that is approximately knee-length, i.e. a men’s shirt. To make a women’s tunic, lengthen the Shirt Body and the Gusset by extending the vertical lines after transferring the shirt pattern to paper: the resulting tunic will be wider at the bottom than the shirt. Add fullness to the tunic by widening the gores at the bottom.